Where to eat in Rome: Trattorias, Cafes, and Markets

One of the things I love most about Rome is the accessibility of truly great food. In some cities, all the best dining is located in one little pocket or all the small establishments have been pushed out by the bigger players. Not in Rome!

You can find up-and-coming chefs alongside classic eateries that have been there for generations. You can get fresh food for a picnic or sit-down to a candlelit dinner within a few steps of each other.

So with so many great options how do you know where to eat?

My number one rule for dining in Italy is: If the menu is only in English (or has pictures of the dishes) walk away!

Don’t get me wrong, some of the restaurants geared towards tourists have delicious food, but they aren’t the places that will give you the best experience. Wander even a short alley away from a popular square and you are more likely to find a local spot.

Here are few of our favorite spots to eat in The Eternal City:

Coffee is key to Italian culture and partaking in the morning tradition is a great way to get a feel for a neighborhood. A few things to remember: if you decide to sit to enjoy your coffee plan on paying an additional fee, most Italians don’t drink milky drinks after 11am (but feel free to if that is your thing), and always say hello to the proprietor as you enter a cafe (buon giorno).

Opened in 1938, Sant’ Eustachio has a prime spot near the Pantheon. Located in an old wood-fired roasting plant they continue to roast their own beans the traditional way. Featuring original furnishings and mosaic floors this cafe is a chance to step back in time to what Rome was in the 30’s.

As the name implies, Sciascia Caffe has been around for a long time. If you’ve survived since 1919 you must be doing something right. Given that their motto is “coffee, to be good, must be black as night, hot as hell and sweet as love”, you can rest assured you are going to get a cup that has been prepared with care.

Take your coffee at the bar, but be sure to check out the vintage photos around the place before you go.

This gorgeous cafe is a mecca for both coffee lovers and poets. Considered the oldest coffee house in Rome by many it has been a gathering spot for locals and visitors for generations. The likes of Keats, Goethe, and even Casanova visited the spot.

Located near the Spanish Steps it is one of the fancier and pricier options on this list, but it is definitely worth it. The owner and staff continue to be dedicated to the exploration of coffee and coffee culture.

Once you’ve been to a few cafes in Rome the name Mondi might seem familiar. They actually roast and provide coffee to a lot of the great coffee spots in the city. Mondi Caffe is farther from central Rome, but it is worth the trip if you love learning about coffee. They actually offer tasting events and obviously some of the freshest roasted beans available.

Italy is known as the birthplace of the Slow Food Movement and lunch and dinner are where that really comes to life. When visiting plan on eating your midday meal between 12:30 and 2:00pm. For those that have the time, lunch can often stretch to an hour. Compared to Americans Italians eat a late dinner. Most people won’t sit down for their evening meal until after 8:00pm. Then it is all about taking your time and enjoying the food, drinks, and company.

The open style deli will have you craving everything on display. The crisp pizzas and antipasti plates are our favorites. Just remember pizza isn’t available at lunch on the weekends so if you want a crispy pie Saturday or Sunday you will have to head there for dinner. Or just head to the deli to get some cheese and meat to make your own feast.

Located in the Trastevere neighborhood, this restaurant might be overlooked by those who stay closer to the main sites of the city. They are missing out!

Known for classic Roman dishes such as pasta alla gricia the staff sources from suppliers focused on high quality and a love of slow food. Plan on taking your time here and if you are feeling adventurous let the talented staff chose your wine and/or meal.

Make reservations!

Often named as one of the best trattorias in Rome Cesare al Casaletto is also surprisingly affordable. This casual spot serves classic dishes with care. Order true Roman classics like trippa alla romana (tripe with tomato and mint) or coda alla vaccinara (braised oxtail) from the secondi menu. Of course, that is after digging into some of their famous fritti misti and pasta.

Pizza is on the list of everyone visiting Rome and this is the place to go if you are serious about your love of the Italian pie. Specializing in the thin crust Romana style pizza you will find both classics and creative twists. We recommend starting with the basics and working your way into the specialty list. Located in Centocelle, it is a bit farther afield for most tourists, but well worth the cab ride.

A few more of our favorites:

Apertivo is a part of Italian culture that can’t be missed. There are great apertivo options everywhere, but I highly recommend just wandering the neighborhood pre-dinner (6-8pm) to find a local spot.

Every time we visit Italy we have to remind ourselves we can’t (shouldn’t) live only on gelato. Otaleg makes it really hard to stick to that commitment. The classic flavors are perfectly executed and the seasonal and specialty options are well-thought out and balanced. If you love pistachio gelato this is the place to get it from.

This unassuming little shop in the Jewish Quarter might be easy to miss, but once you know it is there you will go back time and again. A favorite among locals, you should try a slice of the ricotta e visciole, but go early because they sell out.

If you have gotten your fill of gelato (is that even possible?) and are looking for a pastry to feed your sweet tooth, Paticceria Regoli is your place. Try the maritozzi with an espresso to breakfast like a local.

Created by the same people who revamped Florence’s market, the Mercato Centrale Rome is a mix of artisan market and food hall. You can grab a bite to eat at one of the sit-down spots or peruse the  artisan wares to take something home with you.  As Rome’s newest market, only open since 2016, it is a hot spot conveniently located off Termini Station.

If you are looking for a more traditional market frequented by locals, Mercato Testaccio is the place. You will find a variety of stalls selling everything from ingredients for an amazing meal to used clothes.

There are lots of other markets throughout Rome which set up specific days of the week. You will probably stumble across more than a few as you wander the city.