Meet the Maker: Chicago Johnny’s

Chicago has a strong food tradition built on the many cultures that have congregated around this crossroads of agriculture, industry, and transportation. The food doesn’t always get the respect it deserves, but when you find people who truly get it they can’t wait to share it with you. Josh Downey of Chicago Johnny’s is one of those evangelists. We recently had the chance to chat with Josh about food, business, and the city he calls home.

It seems like Chicago Johnny’s was a family affair at the beginning. Is that still the case? 

In the beginning, we spent about a weekend a month making small (well I consider them small now, but it was 100s of pounds of vegetables) batches with family. It grew out of control pretty quick and that’s when I found a co-packer in the city. Now it’s just my fiance and I packing and shipping, but we still make recipes with family.

From your origin story, it seems food has been a part of your family and in your blood from a young age. Is that true? How has it shaped your experiences around food and what you think of the food of Chicago?

I think most people growing up in the Chicago area can relate, that yes, food was an integral part of family. Sundays we all spent at my grandparents’ eating pasta. Making Italian sausage was a family affair a few times each year at my grandparents’ and we also used to gather each year for Labor Day to have a barbeque and see each other. But certainly, food is the backdrop (whether it’s coffee and cookies or mostaccioli, beef, and sausages) or more accurately the ‘excuse’, to gather together as a family. We still have Sundays at my parents’ house, I’m actually going over there shortly.

As for the food of Chicago, it’s hands down the best food city. Even historically we are in the center of agriculture, farming, and travel. So it makes sense that we incorporated such great foods over time into our lives. I remember when we’d travel out of state when I was younger and just being devastatingly disappointed at the food. We are spoiled here with great culinary history and options.

Chicago Johnny’s got its start with giardiniera. Why that specific item?

I ‘rediscovered’ giardiniera after graduating college from a small town in western Illinois where the food was lackluster. As soon as I got back home I dove into Italian Beef and Italian Sausage sandwiches and grabbing every giardiniera I could find off the shelves. I was ‘all in’ on giardiniera and shortly after started making it for myself. Then family and friends wanted in, and soon after went into production.

You seem to have a real love for the varied cuisine of Chicago. Where do you think it shines the brightest? Are there any favorite neighborhoods when it comes to getting artisan or locally made products?

I think when it comes down to it, the brass tacks, what you were surrounded with growing up is what you gravitate towards for the food you love. We grew up mostly eating what was prepared by family and friends. I don’t have a lot of memories of eating out, but we did have our local favorites or ‘comforts’ I guess you could call it for me. Most of what I love seems to come from my dad’s side that grew up in Cicero and on the South Side (this goes back to the 30s to the 50s really) and I was fortunate enough to benefit from the residuals of their lives and was introduced to Chicago classics through them. 

More recently it seems like the Logan Square area had their boom of restaurants that are ‘advancing’ the Chicago food scene and sadly the old school classics are becoming more scarce as properties go up in value and populations migrate and the older generation is moving out (but with shows like Diners Drive-Ins and Dives and YouTube videos they are becoming ‘destination’ sites, which is awesome in its own right). With the West Loop and now the south shore developments in planning it will be interesting to see where things go from here.

For artisan products, it seems like online boxes and collaboration sites are the future. It’s a total change in consumer and retail mindsets.

Of course, as a local and true lover of food, we have to know what your top five spots to eat in Chicago?

Chicken – Fry The Coop and Honey Butter Fried Chicken 

Italian Beef – Johnnie’s

Deep Dish – Lou Malnati’s (still my favorite, but I grew up on this so probably a bit bias)

Thin Crust – Pizano’s 

BBQ – Wrigley BBQ definitely has fun with his menu and execution is great

But I would encourage people to try everything that they can. I mostly cook in house, almost exclusively these days. Places that are generally ‘overrated’ are generally categorized that way for a reason. Don’t go online to find a ‘list’ or a ‘best of’ for restaurants, the two things that you can do are support the restaurants you love (local or not) and to try everything at least twice (because sh*t happens, and you can’t make a definitive decision on one visit). And if it sucks, it sucks. Move on. The market will generally correct itself and if a place is no good, then it’s no good.